Thursday, March 1, 2012

Eliminating the guesswork when flushing a E61 group.

With Eric S temperature Adaptor (or the Danish equivalent "Thebat18 Device") you are essentially eliminating the guesswork of how much to flush in order to achieve the correct brew temperature on an E61 group based espresso machine.

The two preferred methods of flushing E61 group using Eric S Temperature Adaptor are the so-called Flush-and-Wait (Rebound) and Flush-and-Go methods.

For the Flush-and-Wait method you flush the group well below the brew temp then pull the shot when the thermometer is a few degrees Celsius below the brew temperature. The few minutes after the flush will heat the water in the heat exchanger (HX) to over brew temperature. This super-heated water then cools back down to brew temp when it hits the group which is cooler than the desired brew temp. Therefore you should deduct 2 degrees Celsius from the thermometer reading to get the actual brew temp. 
When using the Flush-and-Wait/Rebound method on my Giotto Classic with a boiler pressure of 1.2 Bar I flush until the thermometer shows 86 degrees C, then wait a couple of minutes (time enough to grind, distribute and tamp) until the thermometer reads 92 degrees C and then brew. The temperature should land between 96-96.5 degrees throughout the shot meaning an actual brew temperature between 94-94.5 degrees C.

With the Flush-and-Go method, the group will be a few degrees Celsius hotter than the desired brew temp.  The HX water is cooler than the brew temp and heats back up as it hits the group. Therefore you should add 2 degrees Celsius to the thermometer reading to get the actual brew temp.
A generic example of using of the Flush-and-Go method on my Giotto would be to flush until the thermometer reads 95 degrees C, wait around 8-10 seconds until the thermometer reads 98 degrees C and brew immediately. The temperature should land between 92-92.5 degrees throughout the shot meaning an actual brew temperature between 94-94.5 degrees C.

The Flush-and-Wait method is simpler is because the group temperature is controlled via the flush and is consistent with every shot because you are over-cooling and waiting for the correct brew temp. 

With the Flush-and-Go method the idle group temperature will be different depending on the time between shots. The idle group temp determines the flush length and necessitates a chart to obtain consistent shot temps under any circumstance.







Using the chart which might seem a little cryptic at first, you will find your idle temperature on the left side of the chart (The thermometer reading at idle) and the desired brew temperature in the top of the chart. So to achieve a brew temperature at 93.5 degrees C at an idle temp of 98 degrees C, you should flush until the thermometer reads 95.5 degrees C. Please note that the above temp readings were made on an Izzo Alex HX machine and the final brew temp might be slightly different on your machine. On my Giotto I need to add an extra 1 degree Celsius to the Desired Brew Temperature numbers to get it right.

All credits for the above article goes to Mike Ripple in Michigan, US - a Home-Barista.com user (AKA Mike01)who made all the above temperature readings on his Izzo Alex.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

New grinder and pump upgrade

Wow! Has it really been over a year since my last update! ..and so much has happened with my espresso setup.
It's still the good ole Giotto but I have added an external Rotary pump and motor. The pump and motor went into the lower kitchen kabinet and brewing is now niiice and quiet. No more shouting to overcome the vibration pump noise and no more rattling from the cups and glasses on top of the Giotto.























To get more control of my cooling flush and brew temperature I bought an EricS Thermometer Adaptor for E61 brewgroups. How have I ever coped without it??


















But thats not the only change...

You can say there has been a "Major" change in the grinding department as my loyal Mazzer Super Jolly has been exchanged with a Mazzer Major. Not as big an upgrade taste/grind-wise as going from the Isomac Granmacinino to the Mazzer SJ, but the Major delivers just a little bit better and fluffier grinds at record super speed. I have my timer set at 3,5 seconds which gives me 17-18gr of espresso grind in the portafilter. I bought the Major second hand but it was in very good condition and after a change of burrs (these guys are intimidating 83mm) and the usual Mazzer mods (see earlier posts) it was good to go.























Have a look at the updated setup on this video



and check out the (whisper) quiet brewing with the Rotary pump action.

Monday, June 15, 2009

The Mazzer Super Jolly modifications

The Mazzer Super Jolly (SJ) is an excellent grinder and if you can fit it into your kitchen, you are good to go for years without the need for upgrading (maybe!!). The SJ produces a better and more consistent grind than the Mazzer Mini E and is often cheaper. In fact the SJ plays well in competition with the large and much more expensive conical grinders. As the Mazzer SJ is the defacto standard espresso grinder in small to medium sized café's, there is a large volume of Super Jolly's around making it possible to get very good second hand deals. If the grinder has not been totally abused (e.g. check if the drive shaft is bent) then just change the burrs and it's as good as new.

However the SJ has a couple of issues which becomes a bit irritating for home-use. The doser doesn't sweep the doser reservoir clean from coffee. Secondly when distributing into the portafilter the doser throws coffee to the left of the portafilter fork often leaving a mess on your kitchen counter, not to mention the waste of coffee. There are well known fixes to these issues and I have applied a couple of these.

Modifications to the Mazzer Super Jolly:

  1. The Short Mazzer Mini Hopper. Using the after-market Mini hopper will take down the height of the SJ to 46 cm which is about the same as the Mazzer Mini.
  2. Replace the standard burrs with Dura-Mill "Duranium" burrs. This will cut down the grinding time for a double (17gr) from 9 seconds to 7!!
  3. The Sweep Modification by Teme. See Espresso Passione by Teme: http://temesblog.blogspot.com/2005/07/mazzer-mod-no3-sweep.html
  4. The "Elvinator". Mess-free distribution directly into the portafilter: http://www.home-barista.com/grinders/elvinator-mazzer-mod-t10908.html
  5. Photo timer/Dark Room timer to cut grinding after a desired amount of seconds. Further - as my SJ is an Automatic, I have disabled the doser auto switch.
Here a picture of the "Elvinator". Thanks and credits to Elvin.





For the lack of better reference you can see most of my mods in the following video:


Giotto Steam/Water Wand modification

Wow, It's been a long time since last update and a lot has happend since then.

I was newer quite satisfied with the steaming performance on the Giotto Classic and went
through all kinds of tests in order to improve this. I tried descaling and changing the boiler water level but it didn't make much difference. After speaking to fellow coffee freaks I came to the conclusion that the ECM Giotto Classic Steam and Water Valves are simply not cut for the job the machine is able to deliver. After seeing a fellow coffee nerd at the Swedish coffee forum http://www.rigtigtkaffe.se making steam mod using Izzo Alex part, I believed I had the answer.
The Izzo valves lets out more steam and as a bonus you get ball jointed mountings.

So lets get started.



















Here you see the Giotto Classic before Waterwand was replaced.




















This is the new and complete water wand



















A picture of the old valve in place.




















The old valve taken out




















Replaced with the new valve - Voila!




















Here's the final result! Replacing the steam wand is exactly the same operation. You may however need to spend more time adjusting the cobber pipes though.

Here a short video of the steam power after the mod.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

New espresso setup


Having owned a VBM domobar (single boiler) and Isomac Granmacinino grinder, which are both great espresso equipment, I was hit by the famous upgrade fever. It started when I found a second hand ECM Giotto Classic which I got in a quite good deal. After having sold the Isomac grinder I started looking for grinders at eBay. The grinders I bid for were primarily La Cimbali Junior and Mazzer Mini/Super Jolly due to the great reviews at e.g. http://www.homebarista.com/ and http://www.coffeegeek.com/. I ended up with both a Junior and Super Jolly.

Both are fantastic grinders with each their pro's and cons. I think I'll end up with just the Mazzer SJ as this is the one my wife prefers.



Friday, July 6, 2007

Jagten på det ultimative espresso "shot"

Nøglen til at lave en god espresso er, at forstå de forskellige variable i espressobrygningen. Jo bedre du lærer dit udstyr at kende, jo bedre forstår du de variables betydning.
Men uanset hvad, er udgangspunktet altid FRISK KAFFE!
Som regel starter du med at øve dit stampe-tryk for at få det så præcists og konsistent som muligt. Når det er på plads kan du lege med faktorer som kværninstilling (finhed), pumpetryk og vandtemperatur.

Her følger en generel anbefaling til de forskellige trin i espressobrygningen:

  1. Når espressomaskinen er varmet op, tages filterholderen ud og filteret tørres.
  2. Tænd din kværn
  3. Kvæn kaffe ned i filteret til der en passende top på
  4. Sluk kværnen
  5. Fordel kaffen ligeligt i filteret ved at bruge f.eks Schomer eller Stockfleths teknik
  6. Stamp lige ned i filterkurven med et let tryk
  7. Rotér stamperen uden tryk
  8. (Bank let et par gange på siden af filterholderen for slå løs kaffe ned i filterholderen) EDIT: Er gået af mode!
  9. Stamp så lige ned med minimum 15 kg tryk (øv dig på en badevægt)
  10. Rotér stamperen uden tryk for at polere overfladen
  11. Tør overskydende kaffe at filterkurv og filterholder
  12. Sørg for at espresso maskinen har rette brygtemperatur
  13. Filterholderen sættes i og brygningen startes
  14. Stop brygningen når kaffestrålen lysner. (bør først være efter 20-25 sek)
  15. Smag på din espresso og juster finhedsgraden på kværnen om nødvendigt
  • Hvis brygningen går for hurtigt og kaffen bliver for lys - juster da kværnen til at male finere
  • Hvis brygningen løber for langsomt - juster da kværne til at male grovere
  • Hvis kaffen smager brændt og bitter er temeperaturen for høj. Forudsat at temperaturen er indstillet korrekt på maskinen kan problemet afhjælpes ved at køre lidt bryggevand gennem gruppen uden filterholden i.
  • Hvis kaffen smager surt og flad og har lys crema er temperaturen sandsynligvis for lav.

16. Nyd en dejlig kop espresso!

Jeg nænvte foroven to metoder til at fordele kaffen i filterkurven - Schomer metoden og Stockfleths teknik. For begge metoder gælder at man bruger sin finger til fordele kaffen med let tryk ned i filterkurven.